The 2 Kyushu Zen Retreats: the same, but different…
A short Zen Retreat comparison guide.
The overall program and schedule is similar, but the feeling at the two retreats is quite different. The specific activities offered are mentioned in the “daily schedule” page on both websites.
Shoganji (ZenRetreat.com) is much more rustic, secluded, and is a slightly more rough, wild, intense experience for many people. The host is also a real character and is sometimes not what people expect in terms of typical Japanese hospitality or monk-like behaviour. It's kind of like going back in time, and you can see the influence of Chinese Taoism inherent in Zen. Its very much a homestay experience and involves personal experiences with a unique, singular, host. All of that said, the place is the most famous of the two retreats, is always booked solid, and it has a special magic to it. It definitely feels like an ancient sacred site with a particular energy present there. People either really fall in love with this place, or really don't like it because its a bit wild and imperfect.
Beppu Zen retreat (BeppuZenRetreat.com) is much more typical and conservative, reflecting typical Zen temple life in Japan; with warm, polite, and predictable Japanese hospitality. The activities are much more formal and scheduled. The monk and his family hosting you are kind, serious, and earnest hosts, who really want to show people the traditional side of Japan and its culture. The temple is very old, but is immaculately maintained and renovated. A strong majority of guests who come here are very happy with this place because its much more predictable.
I personally love both places, and have spent extended time periods at both, but they do feel quite different from each other in terms of overall experience. You're also welcome to arrange a stay at both places as many guests do. (with a five-night minimum stay requirement at both retreats)
I hope this helps you make your decision and choose the right Japanese Zen Temple experience for you!
- Pierre Black 2024
Shōganji Zen Retreat and Beppu Zen Retreat
quick comparison chart
600+ year old temple site with some original artefacts.
One 70+ year-old monk.
No breakfast, morning fasting practice strongly recommended.
Country-style, rustic, Japanese home cooking with some monastic influences that you help prepare. Supervised fasting is also available.
60 minutes meditation starting 6 am.
You will be staying in the same building as the temple, in the residential part. You have free access to the temple and most of the property most of the time.
Temple and lodging are very rustic/old.
Temple is more secluded, on a mountainside in a bamboo and cedar forest.
Village is small, traditional, rural, and very quiet. Many traditional old houses.
5 minute walk to the local sand beach with swimming in summer months. (june, july, august)
No onsen in the immediate vicinity, car or train travel is required. Not easy to take onsen trips on your own, but there are regular outings with your host by car.
Train station: 1-hour walk OR 10 min drive to Kōzaki train station, then 25-minute train ride to Oita city.
More isolated and private with immersion in nature & rural life.
Solo exploration of regional attractions is somewhat challenging, suited to the more adventurous type of guest.
Very quiet village with only occasional interaction with local community.
More monastic lifestyle influence and more time alone.
Additional meditation; easy anytime access to temple main hall for additional meditation, reading, yoga practice, and other activities.
On-site activities are generally all included in the cost of stay.
Daily "Samu" work like gardening, etcetera, usually 2-3 hours can be intense for some people.
Guests must help with meal preparation and clean up.
Experience rural temple life with a rustic and monastic feel.
Unique host, quirky personality.
Can be an intense experience for some people.
Winter cold can be challenging for some guests. Parts of the building are not heated. Details are discussed on the website.
Less attention to your personal food preferences or special needs. You are encouraged to eat Japanese traditional foods. Very picky eaters might be unhappy here.
Vegetarian preferences are easily accommodated. Less comfortable for vegans.
670+ year old temple site with some original artefacts.
40+ year-old monk and his wife, children, and parents.
Very simple monastic breakfast of rice soup.
High-quality beautiful Japanese meals that you help prepare. Restaurant quality.
40 minutes meditation starting 7 am.
You will be staying in a cosy guesthouse only a 30 second walk from the temple. Activities in the temple are scheduled daily but you do not have free access.
Temple and lodging is more typical Japanese style and recently renovated
Temple is in a thriving small agricultural town on a hillside with a view of the ocean.
Town is quiet and residential but full of life and young families. Mix of modern and older traditional housing.
15 min walk to the ocean, rocky beach, not for swimming. (Swimming beaches are available further down the coast towards Beppu city and are easy to get to.)
Onsen nearby can be accessed easily by bike, car, taxi, or train. Walking might be possible but is somewhat challenging. Easy to go on your own.
Train station: 10 min walk to Bungo Toyooka train station, then 10 min train ride to Beppu city.
More connected to regional attractions for easy self-exploration.
Easy and well-connected for regional solo exploration.
An active residential town with young families, regular interaction with local community.
More temple/community lifestyle and Japanese homestay feel.
Additional meditation; anytime access to small dedicated meditation space on temple property.
Some on site activities may require additional payment.
“Samu" temple work is light and easy, usually 1 hour, and not every day.
Guests must help with meal preparation and clean up.
Experience typical Japanese temple life and Japanese culture.
Conventional host, more typical Japanese cultural experience.
Soothing and hospitable atmosphere.
Warm and cozy guestgouse in the winter time. Meditation, however, is in an unheated setting, so bundle up!
More accommodation of your personal food preferences or special needs. Most special food requirements can be accommodated. Ask for details if your dietary needs are complex.
Vegetarian and vegan requirements are easily accommodated.
